How did you know? Shaner's red, I have a love/hate ongoing battle with it, ha. since 1979. A glaze that can be anything from pondslime to oxblood. It mutates through each potter who uses it. Our materials vary, the clay body varies, the firing cycle varies, and the person varies. I have chucked awa y, smashed, or remaindered many a pot glazed from a bin bearing the "Shaner Red" label. I've also crowed with glee on opening kilns with beautiful batches. I'll try post some pics, very soon of a couple of variants. Nice Chun-looking glaze on the right, is the tile red slipped on the bottom?
No, the glazes have just been brushed on the tiles and dipped in the vases. I heard that Shaners Red needed to be thin to be red. The main factor in it is probably the type of Iron oxide used. I know that affects my black (oxidized!!) glaze.
Hi, I've removed word verification...so if all goes well I'll leave it off..... Please leave a pebble in the pool ((o)) even if you don't want to comment, it is nice to see where you all come from! Thanks!
How did you know?
ReplyDeleteShaner's red, I have a love/hate ongoing battle with it, ha. since 1979.
A glaze that can be anything from pondslime to oxblood. It mutates through each potter who uses it. Our materials vary, the clay body varies, the firing cycle varies, and the person varies.
I have chucked awa
y, smashed, or remaindered many a pot glazed from a bin bearing the "Shaner Red" label. I've also crowed with glee on opening kilns with beautiful batches.
I'll try post some pics, very soon of a couple of variants.
Nice Chun-looking glaze on the right, is the tile red slipped on the bottom?
No, the glazes have just been brushed on the tiles and dipped in the vases.
ReplyDeleteI heard that Shaners Red needed to be thin to be red.
The main factor in it is probably the type of Iron oxide used. I know that affects my black (oxidized!!) glaze.
We found it to be tremendously sensitive to the body beneath, slip modifiers etc.
ReplyDeleteFiring rates, cooling cycles, atmosphere...